J-STORIES — Japan’s sake brewing industry is a valued art believed to date back as far as 2,500 years. Despite sake’s deep roots in Japanese culture, the industry has been facing a crisis with declining domestic sales, a shrinking number of breweries, and climate challenges affecting rice yield.
However, the recognition of sake brewing as an intangible cultural heritage of Japan by UNESCO earlier this month, offers an opportunity for growth, especially in overseas markets. Industry leaders believe this milestone can further boost international awareness and exports, helping revive the long-valued craft.
The UNESCO recognition comes amid a growing demand for Japan’s rice wine across Asia, Europe and Latin America. Even so, exports still remain a small share of Japan’s total sake output — a significant difference from European grape wines, where the majority of production, especially in countries like Spain and Italy, is destined for overseas markets.
In an effort to broaden sake’s global appeal, some Japanese brewers have recently begun introducing non-traditional, innovative offerings — such as sparkling varieties known as “awa sake” — aimed at Western consumers. Others are capitalizing on Japan’s surge in inbound tourism, boosted in part by a weaker yen, by offering sake-focused travel experiences, or “sake tourism.”
Junichiro Ozawa, one such brewer offering a sake tour, expressed heartfelt emotions about the UNESCO recognition.
“This is a big step for sake’s very long history,” said the 18th-generation head of the Ozawa Sake Brewery in western Tokyo.
He carries on the legacy of his family, who has been brewing sake since 1702. Deep in the mountains of the nature-rich part of Tokyo, the area is known for its fresh and abundant well water – an essential ingredient in Japanese sake production.
The UNESCO designation not only honors the product but also the dedication to mastering the century-old brewing methods that define Japanese sake. From using kōji mold to the unique simultaneous saccharification and fermentation process, sake brewing stands out from other brewed alcoholic beverages such as wine or beer. Historically, sake was stored in wooden barrels. Yet modern breweries like Ozawa have turned to porcelain-enameled steel tanks to maintain consistent quality.
Hitoshi Utsunomiya, director of the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS), highlighted that sake brewing exemplifies the form of living tradition that UNESCO aims to preserve.
“This recognition is not a marketing tool, but it will boost awareness of sake’s deep cultural roots,” he told reporters on a recent press tour organized by the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Japan. There are over 1,160 sake breweries in Japan, yet Utsunomiya said the number of active breweries is declining every year. The decline may be due to a shrinking domestic market, inflation, and the effects of climate on rice cultivation. Despite the sake export value increasing tenfold since 1998, 2023 showed the first decrease in over 14 years.
According to Ministry of Finance trade statistics, sake exports totaled more than ¥41 billion ($265 million) in 2023, with the U.S. and China as the top consumers worldwide. The UNESCO listing is expected to boost sake’s international recognition, with Utsunomiya hoping that sake can be “celebrated similarly to the wine in Georgia or beer in Belgium.” The JSS hopes the recognition will lead to increased brewery tours nationwide, which fall behind the popularity of vineyard visits. Despite sake’s prevalence in Japan’s market, it lags in the global market. According to Fortune Business Insights, in 2023 wine had a global market value of over $230 billion, and beer over $821 billion. Sake tops out at just over $12.5 billion.
“We want Japanese people to recognize how great their culture is,” Utsunomiya said. A cedar ball hung above during his speech symbolizing the god of sake-making. The ball, known as a Sugidama, serves as a reminder of how sake’s tradition is intertwined with Japan’s history and spiritual beliefs.
The sake brewing process is labor-intensive and requires careful precision and expertise. At Ozawa Sake Brewery, 17 workers produce sake in a cycle that can last 20 days to two months, with the fermentation process taking another 20 to 30 days. Japanese sake is designated under strict laws that separate it from sake produced in other areas of the world. For sake to be designated Japanese, it must meet requirements regarding the type of rice, kōji mold, water, and amount of distilled alcohol.
Sake currently accounts for just 0.2% of the global alcoholic beverage market. According to JSS, industry leaders are hoping to at least double this number. Efforts are underway to lower import taxes with the U.S., which is sake’s second-largest foreign consumer following China. Breweries are also figuring out how to deal with the challenges brought about by climate change, which is pushing rice production areas further north as higher temperatures are making rice grains harder to dissolve and less flavorful.
The UNESCO recognition comes at a time when sake is gaining more attention worldwide. As people discover its rich flavors and history, sake brewers hope this recognition will secure its place in the alcoholic beverage market. For breweries like Ozawa’s, this milestone is a testament to centuries of dedication to their craft and a hopeful step that future members of the Ozawa family can continue sake production for generations.
“There is no god that doesn’t drink sake (in Japan),” says Ozawa, quoting an old Japanese saying. Now with UNESCO’s recognition and and an increasing attention on sake, the world may soon understand why.
Written by Lucas Maltzman
Editing by Isshiki Takanori, Mark Goldsmith and Toshi Maeda
Top Video : Hand out provided by Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology (MEXT)
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